Calculator Tag: Carpentry & Trim

Wainscoting Layout Calculator

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Wainscoting Layout Calculator

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Layout Using:

Provide the number of panels you want and we’ll calculate how wide the panels should be so they can be evenly spaced on the wall and we’ll layout the stiles for the calculated panel dimensions.

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Provide an approximate width of a panel and we’ll calculate the closest exact panel size that can be evenly spaced on the wall and we’ll layout the stiles for the calculated wainscoting panel dimensions.

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Layout Using Number of Panels:

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Layout Using Approx. Panel Width:

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We calculated there are 2 options close to a {{(approx_panel_width != ”) ? approx_panel_width+'”‘ : ”}} panel width

Layout for {{total_number_of_panel_1}} Panels

Dimensions

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Layout Drawing

Stile Locations

Layout for {{total_number_of_panel}} Panels

Dimensions

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Layout Drawing

Stile Locations

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How to Lay Out Wainscoting

Wainscoting is a system of panels, rails, and moldings that add decoration and protection to the walls of your home. Wainscoting may be installed to waist or shoulder height and is available in many materials and styles.

The most common types of wainscoting include raised panel, flat panel, overlay panel, board and batten, and beadboard.

Let’s talk a bit about terminology for the parts that make up wainscoting. The horizontal boards at the top and bottom of the paneling are called rails, and the vertical boards that separate the panels are called stiles.

The larger boards in the middle of the rails and stiles are called panels. Panels may be installed with trim between the rails and stiles, but a flat panel or board and batten look can be achieved without installing a wood panel.

Depending on how ornate you want the installation to be, you can also use additional moldings above the panel molding rails and below the chair rail. These are often called apron moldings, but you can use a variety of styles, including pencil, dental, and screw.

Before starting a wainscoting installation, it is critical to lay out the rails, stiles, and panels. Most often, the panels are an even width, which requires some measuring to find the correct width that allows all of the panels to be consistent.

Step One: Measure Each Wall

To start laying out the panels and stiles, measure the width of each wall in inches. If measurements are in another form, such as feet, convert the measurement to inches.

Step Two: Decide The Number of Panels on Each Wall

Once you have the width of each wall, consider how many panels you would like to install on each of them.

If you are using readymade panels, or installing a click-lock beadboard, get the measurements of each panel or piece. Most panels come in sections that are either 48″ or up to 96″ in width. If you are making your own wainscot out of various pieces, you can determine the size of each panel.

To get an idea, lay out the various components on the floor in front of the wall. You can play with the width of the stiles on the panels to determine the total number of panels there will be, then measure for the final width. Depending on how you lay it out and the type and style of wainscoting, you may measure the width of the flat section inside the moldings, or you may measure the entire section from stile to stile.

You can find out how many panels you need by dividing the width of each wall by the rough panel size. You’ll probably end up with an odd number, like 3.4 panels, and that’s ok; just round to the closest whole number.

Step Three: Determine the Rail and Stile Width

If you are making your own wainscoting and you are using a flat panel style, you will need to determine the width of the rails and stiles that will surround each indented panel. These are flat pieces of lumber, but you may choose to add additional moldings inside of panels as well.

However, the rail and stile widths will influence the size of the flat panel inside of them. The larger the rail and stile, the smaller the panel.

The top rail and stiles are usually 2″-3″. The lower rail is often much wider than the top rail, usually around 7″-8″.

Step Four: Calculate the Panel Width

The next step is to find the exact width of the panels for each wall. It’s likely that the panel size will vary from wall to wall slightly, but the goal is to get them close to the same size or to a size that looks good visually.

One formula to find the panel width is to divide the wall width plus the stile width by the number of installed panels to find the width of the stile and panel together, then subtract the width of the stile to find the final width of the panel.

panel width = (wall width + stile width / number of panels) – stile width

Keep in mind that this will be the visible width of the panel, or more specifically, the distance between each stile. For panel designs that incorporate trim between the panel and the stile, the actual panel size may be smaller, and for assembled panels where the panel is installed in a groove behind the stiles, the panel may be larger.

The exact style of wainscoting will inform the actual panel width, but at this point, it’s possible to start laying out the stiles evenly on the wall.

Step Five: Determine Stile Length

To find the length of the stiles, start by determining the desired height of the wainscoting, then subtract the top rail and bottom rail width from the overall height.

stile length = wainscoting height – top rail width – bottom rail width
Step Six: Lay Out the Panels and Stiles

To start laying out the stiles, locate the first stile, which would be from 0″ to the stile width. Then add the width of the panel to find the next stile location. Continue this process along the wall to locate the placement of each stile.

If you are using panel sections that have three or four raised panel designs in them, you will need to make sure that the panels are even on the wall. Otherwise, unless your wall length is evenly divided by the panel section length, you may end up with an uneven end.

For a layout where the ends will use panels that are smaller than the rest of the wall, it’s best to start in the center of the wall and go evenly out to each side. Cut the end panels as needed; they will be even on either side for a balanced layout.

At this point, the layout is complete; the design of each wainscoting style may change the actual size of the components that need to be cut to assemble the paneling, so refer to the designs for the wainscoting you’re using to determine the final dimensions for each part.

How to Estimate Wainscoting Materials

There are a few components that need to be estimated to find the amount of material needed. Start by measuring the wall width and wainscoting height. The width of the wall will be the needed length of the top rail, bottom rail, and chair rail or cap molding.

Estimate the Amount of Wainscoting Stile Material Needed

To find the length of stile material needed, find the height of each stile and multiply by the number of panels, then add 1. For example, if a stile is 24″ and there are three panels, there will be 96″ of stile material needed.

stile length = stile height × (number of panels + 1)
Estimate the Amount of Wainscoting Panel Material Needed

To find the amount of panel material needed, multiply the height of the panel by the width of the panel to find the size of the panel, then multiply by the number of panels needed. For example, a 24″ high by 36″ wide panel is 6 square feet; if there are three panels, then 18 square feet will be needed.

panel material square footage = panel height × panel width × number of panels

You can also use a square footage calculator to find this.

Handling Inner Corners

It is almost inevitable that a wainscoting project will involve an inner corner. The inner corner adds a slight challenge because there is an overlap of the wainscoting where the walls meet.

This can cause the stile on one edge to appear thinner than the rest since a portion of the stile is buried behind the wainscoting on the adjacent wall. To account for this, use a stile on each edge that is wider by the thickness of the stiles.

Alternatively, you can miter the corners of each style. This allows them to fit together in the corner without subtracting any thickness.

To get an even panel layout, subtract the thickness of the added stile widths from the wall width before calculating. The provided stile locations may be off if the first stile is wider; consider this when laying out the stiles.

It may be necessary to add the extra stile thickness to each still start and end location to make the layout even.

Additional Carpentry Resources

Use our trim and molding calculator to estimate the linear footage of trim and moldings for a room. Our board footage calculator is great for estimating the board footage of a board, which is necessary to calculate the cost of materials. Get free wainscoting installation estimates from professional trim carpenters in your area.

Frequently Asked Questions

This will vary depending on the style. Panel interior size can range from 12″ to 36″, but wainscoting comes in many styles, including some with much tighter spacing.

The most basic rule of thumb is that wainscoting can be waist or shoulder height. However, you can purchase readymade panels that are 32″ to 48″ and combine them with baseboard and cap moldings to increase the height more to achieve the style you’re looking for.

It isn’t necessary, but in most cases, it is used. The baseboard can take the place of the bottom rail, or it can be used below it for added height and wall protection.

This can vary depending on the material it’s made from. MDF takes paint very smoothly regardless of application, while some wood moldings may need a brush to get into the various pieces.

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Raised Panel Cabinet Door Calculator

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Raised Panel Cabinet Door Calculator

Calculate the size of raised-panel and flat-panel cabinet doors by entering the dimensions of the cabinet opening and configuring the panel style options. See a rendered scale drawing of the your doors below.

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Cabinet Opening

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Door Options

Style:

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Panel Style:

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Rail and Stile Material:

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Cabinet Door Styles

Raised-panel and flat-panel doors typically consist of 5 parts: 2 rails, 2 stiles, and a panel. This is commonly referred to as a 5-piece door.

The stiles are the vertical boards that span the height of the door and the rails are the horizontal boards that fit between the stiles at the top and bottom. The rails and stiles have a groove that the panel fits into for a clean look and to accommodate changes in the size of the panel due to humidity without breaking the door.

There are several styles of cabinet doors, including inset, lipped, partial overlay, and full overlay.

Inset doors sit flush to the cabinet with a 1/16” gap around the edges.

Lipped doors have a rabbit around the edge and are partially recessed in the cabinet opening. They usually overlay the door frame by 3/8“.

Partial overlay doors sit proud of the cabinet and often overlap the frame by 1/2“.

Full overlay doors sit proud of the cabinet and often overlap the entire cabinet frame so the frame is not visible.

Because of the different overlay and clearance dimensions with the different styles knowing the style of door is the first step in calculating the size of the door.
It is also critical to get the dimensions of the doors exactly right so it fits the cabinet opening correctly.

Find the Cabinet Door Size

Find the size of the cabinet door opening by measuring the height and width. Add the dimension of the overlay or subtract the clearance needed for the selected door style to each edge of the opening.

For example, if the cabinet opening is 36″ x 40″ and you’re using a partial overlay door add 1/2″ to each side of the cabinet opening to find the required size of the cabinet door, which would be 37″ x 41″.

Find the Dimensions of the Rails and Stiles

The rails and stiles are often the same width for an even border around the door. The length of the stiles will be equal to the height of the door.

The width of the rails is equal to the width of the door, minus the width of 2 stiles, plus the depth of the panel groove / connection joint on each stile.

rail width = door width – (stile width × 2) + (panel groove depth × 2)

For example, an 18″ wide door with 2 1/4” wide stiles and a panel groove of 3/8“:

rail width = 18 – (2.25 × 2) + (.375 × 2)
rail width = 18 – 4.5 + .75 = 14.25

Find the Dimensions for Two Doors

For wider cabinet openings it is preferable to use two doors opening opposite directions. In this case the stiles are the same dimension but the rails and panels will be smaller. To find the dimensions for a cabinet opening with two doors, subtract the clearance between the doors from the overall door size and then divide by 2.

Continuing the example above of the opening that is 36″ x 40″, subtract 1/16” from the 37″ wide door and then divide by two to get the width of each door.

Once the door size is known, use the formula above to find the width of the stile for each door.

Find the Dimensions of the Panel

The panel should be larger than the space between the rails and stiles as it will fit within the groove of the door. The panel should be a little smaller than the distance between the bottom of the groove on each rail/stile to allow for some expansion due to humidity.

The formula for the panel width is the door width – the width of two stiles + the depth of 2 panel grooves – the expansion space of 2 panel grooves.

For example, the width of a panel for an 18″ wide door with 2 1/4” wide stiles, a panel groove of 3/8“, and 1/16” expansion space is:

panel width = 18 – (2.25 × 2) + (.375 × 2) – (.0625 × 2)
panel width = 18 – 4.5 + .75 – .125 = 14.125

The method to find the height of a panel is the same.

Cabinet Door Joinery

There are several styles of joinery that can be used on 5-piece cabinet doors, but the most common to use a bevel, ogee, radius, or 90° edge on the interior corners of the rails and stiles.

Some joints are possible using just a table saw blade to create a groove for a panel while others require specialized cope-and-stick router bits to create the opposing edges of the joint for the rails and stiles.

Bevel, Ogee, and Radius Corner Joints

To create a bevel, ogee, or curved radius joint we recommend getting a set of matching cope-and-stick router bits that can mill the groove for the panel on the rails and stiles and can also mil the tenon on the rails.

The router bits are often sold in sets such as this Freud 3-piece round-over door router bit set.

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Shaker Style Joints

To create a shaker style door no corner treatment is necessary, but a groove to hold the panel is still needed. Use a router or table saw to create a groove that is the thickness of the panel and centered on the rails and stiles.

On the rails, create a tenon that is the same thickness and length as the groove. This style of joinery does not require specialized router bits but does require a bit more setup on the table saw.

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Rafter Length Calculator

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Rafter Length Calculator

Calculate the length of a rafter given the width of the building, overhang, and width of the beam, if any.

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Rafter Length:

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How to Calculate the Length of a Rafter

A rafter is a structural member that provides support for the roof sheathing and transfers the weight of the roof to the exterior walls of a building. Calculating the length of the rafters is an essential part of framing a roof.

There are many different types of rafters, and the type you use will be influenced by the type of roof. For example, dormer roofs will require dormer rafters in addition to common rafters, while hip rafters will be required for hipped roofs.

The length of a rafter is the distance between the point where the rafter meets the beam (or opposing rafter for a truss) and the end of the overhang. Note that this is not necessarily the same as the length of the rafter board, which might need to be cut longer to account for rafter tails or an edge profile.

Each type of rafter may need to be measured differently. You can calculate the length of a common rafter in a few easy steps.

Step One: Calculate the Roof Pitch

The roof pitch is the angle of the roof and can be measured in several ways, but is most commonly expressed in rise over a standard 12-inch run. But, in order to calculate the rafter length, we need to calculate the pitch in degrees.

The angle in degrees is equal to the inverse tangent of the pitch of the roof.

angle = arctan(pitch / 12)
You can also find the angle for your roof pitch in the table below.

Roof Pitch Angle in Degrees
0/12 0°
1/12 4.76°
2/12 9.46°
3/12 14.04°
4/12 18.43°
5/12 22.62°
6/12 26.57°
7/12 30.26°
8/12 33.69°
9/12 36.87°
10/12 39.81°
11/12 42.51°
12/12 45°

Pitch can be used to help calculate the rise. This is the total height of the roof. If you have this figure, you can use it plus the run, to get the rafter length.

The rise is also the term frequently used for the vertical beam that the rafters will butt against. You can use the following formula to get the rise:

rise = run × pitch

The run is half the measure of the roof span. You can also use our rise over run calculator to find this.

Step Two: Measure the Roof Span

The roof’s span is the total length of the roof. You’ll also need to account for the overhang beyond the building on either side.

Measure the span by measuring the width of the building using a tape measure, then add the overhang on each side to the measurement.

Step Three: Calculate the Rafter Run

The rafter’s run is the horizontal distance between the end of the rafter and where it meets the beam, which is known as the rise. To calculate the run, divide the total width of the building in half. Then, account for the beam or ridge board by subtracting half of its width from the run.

run = (total width ÷ 2) – (beam width ÷ 2)

Step Four: Calculate the Rafter Length

Now that you know the run and the angle in degrees, you can use trigonometry to calculate the rafter length. Since the cosine of an angle in a right triangle is equal to the length of the adjacent side divided by the hypotenuse, we can derive the following formula to calculate the rafter length:

rafter length = run ÷ cos(angle)

The rafter length is equal to the run divided by the cosine of the roof’s angle.

Another method is to use the rise of the roof using this formula:

rise² + run² = rafter length²

Meaning that your rafter length will equal:

rafter length = √(rise² + run²)

Remember that things like allowance, lumber size, and roof type can play into the overall length of each rafter.

You might also be interested in our roofing calculator to find how many squares of shingles you’ll need to finish it off.

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Plywood Calculator

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Plywood Calculator

Estimate the sheets of 4×8 plywood needed for walls, floors, and ceilings.

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Plywood Estimate

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How Many Sheets of 4×8 Plywood Do You Need?

Plywood is a versatile material made of many thin sheets of wood known as plies. It’s used for many things, from covering a home’s exterior to creating a subfloor. Plywood can come in different types, sizes, and thicknesses.

Finding the number of sheets of plywood needed for a floor, wall, ceiling, or cabinet begins with finding the area that needs to be covered. You can find an area by multiplying the length and width of the space in feet.

Find the square footage of each space and add them together to find the total square footage needed.

Divide the total square footage of the area by the square footage of a sheet of plywood to find the number of sheets required to cover the space. A 4×8 sheet of plywood is 32 sq ft.

For example, if the area to be covered in plywood is 800 sq ft, then 25 sheets of plywood will be needed to cover it.800 ÷ 32 = 25 sheets

Ordering extra sheets of plywood will allow for project waste and scrap pieces that can’t be used. It’s generally a good idea to add 10% to your total square footage, then round up to the nearest full sheet of plywood when ordering.

Common Types of Plywood

Multi-ply – Plywood is actually composed of several layers of wood glued together. Plywood is commonly composed of 3 or 5 layers.

OSB – Oriented strand board (OSB) is composed of wood strands or flakes compressed with glue. OSB is commonly used in framing to sheath roofs, floors, and walls.

MDF – Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is composed of small wood fibers compressed with glue. The smaller fibers offer neat edges and a smooth surface. MDF is commonly used in cabinetry.

Particle Board – Particle Board is composed of small wood particles compressed with glue. The particles are bigger than the fibers used in MDF but smaller than the flakes used in OSB. Particle board is often used for floor sheathing, shelving, and furniture.

Block Board – Block board is a panel composed of boards glued edge to edge and then sandwiched between sheets of veneer. It is very strong and rigid and is often used in furniture.

Hardwood Plywood – Hardwood plywood is often used for furniture and cabinets. It often has a smooth or sanded finish and will display the grain and color of the wood used, so the surface may be finished.

Sheathing – Sheathing hardwood or structural hardwood is very strong and thick, and is used for sheathing a roof or structure. This plywood does not have a finished surface, as it’s meant to be covered.

Markerboard – A less common type of plywood is markerboard. This is used as a surface material for interior walls and furnishings. Its surface is coated in a smooth surface so that a dry-erase marker can be used on it.

Common Plywood Thickness

Plywood is often sold in 1/4″, 1/2″, and 3/4″ thicknesses, though other sizes are also available. The thickness needed will depend on the purpose and use. Thicker panels are more rigid and durable but are also heavier and more expensive.

Keep in mind that the actual thickness of plywood is often slightly thinner than the nominal thickness, learn more about the actual thickness of plywood. In most cases, this will not be an issue, but it is important to keep in mind for projects that require more precision, such as fine carpentry.

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Lumber and Hardwood Weight Calculator

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Lumber and Hardwood Weight Calculator

Calculate the weight of lumber and hardwood given the size of the boards or the volume of wood in board feet.

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Density {{density_On_ui}}

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How to Estimate How Much Wood Weighs

While the weight of the type of wood or lumber you choose may not impact the outcome of a project, it can impact other factors. Lumber weight can influence the shipping cost for your project.

Very heavy lumber may also require additional workers to help load and move it, as well as additional help when building. In addition, very dense and heavy lumber may be more difficult to work with.

Therefore, understanding the weight of the lumber you are choosing and being able to apply that weight for the entire load can help you plan better for delivery costs and how many people you may need on the job.

The weight of wood varies by the species of wood and the moisture content of the lumber. Green lumber will weigh significantly more than kiln-dried boards due to its higher density and water content.

Find Wood Density

To find how much wood weighs, start by finding the density of the wood. Use the wood density chart below to find the approximate density for different species of wood.

Find Wood Volume

Once you have the density of the wood, find the volume of the wood in cubic feet or cubic meters. If you know the board footage of the lumber, divide it by 12 to find the volume in cubic feet. Our board footage calculator can help find the volume of your wood in board feet.]

You can also calculate the volume of lumber by measuring the length, width, and thickness in inches and multiplying them together. This will get the volume in cubic inches. Divide the volume in cubic inches by 1,728 to find the volume in cubic feet. Our cubic inches to cubic feet conversion calculator can help with this.

Find the Weight of Wood

After you have the density and the volume, multiply them together to find the total weight of that specific piece. To find the weight of the total load, you will need to get the number of pieces of lumber, then multiply this against the weight of a single piece of lumber.

For plywood, learn how to estimate the weight of plywood panels.

Density of Wood Species

The density or hardness of wood varies by species, and the value is necessary to approximate the weight of lumber by volume. In this table, the density of different species of wood is expressed as weight in pounds per cubic foot and kilograms per cubic meter.

The density will vary based on the moisture content of the wood.

Keep in mind that these numbers may vary depending on the age of the wood, moisture levels, and even the temperature. Things like general humidity and how the lumber was stored may impact total moisture content.

Wood Species 10³ kg/m³ lb/ft³
Alder 0.4 – 0.7 26 – 42
Afrormosia 0.71 44
Agba 0.51 32
Apple 0.65 – 0.85 41 – 52
Ash, White 0.65 – 0.85 40 – 53
Ash, Black 0.54 33
Ash, European 0.71 44
Aspen 0.42 26
Balsa 0.11 – 0.16 7 – 9
Bamboo 0.3 – 0.4 19 – 25
Basswood 0.3 – 0.6 20 – 37
Beech 0.7 – 0.9 32 – 56
Birch, British 0.67 42
Birch, European 0.67 42
Box 0.95 – 1.2 59 – 72
Butternut 0.38 24
Cedar of Lebanon 0.58 36
Cedar, Western Red 0.38 23
Cherry, European 0.63 – 0.9 43 – 56
Chestnut, Sweet 0.56 30
Cottonwood 0.41 25
Cypress 0.51 32
Dogwood 0.75 47
Douglas Fir 0.53 33
Ebony 1.1 – 1.3 69 – 83
Elm, American 0.57 35
Elm, English 0.55 – 0.6 34 – 37
Elm, Dutch 0.56 35
Elm, Wych 0.69 43
Elm, Rock 0.82 50
Gaboon 0.43 27
Greenheart 1.04 64.9
Gum, Black 0.59 36
Gum, Blue 0.82 50
Gum, Red 0.54 35
Hackberry 0.62 38
Hemlock, Western 0.5 31
Hickory 0.83 37 – 58
Holly 0.75 47
Iroko 0.66 41
Juniper 0.55 35
Keruing 0.74 46
Larch 0.5 – 0.55 31 – 35
Lignum Vitae 1.17 – 1.33 73 – 83
Lime, European 0.56 35
Locust 0.65 – 0.7 42 – 44
Logwood 0.9 57
Madrone 0.74 45
Magnolia 0.57 35
Mahogany, African 0.5 – 0.85 31 – 53
Mahogany, Cuban 0.66 40
Mahogany, Honduras 0.65 40
Mahogany, Spanish 0.85 53
Maple 0.6 – 0.75 39 – 47
Meranti, Dark Red 0.71 44
Myrtle 0.66 40
Oak 0.6 – 0.9 37 – 56
Oak, American Red 0.74 45
Oak, American White 0.77 47
Oak, English Brown 0.74 45
Obeche 0.39 24
Oregon Pine 0.53 33
Parana Pine 0.56 35
Pear 0.6 – 0.7 38 – 45
Pecan 0.77 47
Persimmon 0.9 55
Philippine Red Luan 0.59 36
Pine, Corsican 0.51 32
Pine, Pitch 0.67 52
Pine, Radiata 0.48 30
Pine, Scots 0.51 32
Pine, White 0.35 – 0.5 22 – 31
Pine, Yellow 0.37 – 0.59 23 – 37
Plane, European 0.64 40
Plum 0.65 – 0.8 41 – 49
Poplar 0.35 – 0.5 22 – 31
Ramin 0.67 42
Redwood, American 0.45 28
Redwood, European 0.51 32
Rosewood, Bolivian 0.82 50
Rosewood, East Indian 0.9 55
Sapele 0.64 40
Satinwood 0.95 59
Spruce 0.4 – 0.7 25 – 44
Spruce, Canadian 0.45 28
Spruce, Norway 0.43 27
Spruce, Sitka 0.45 28
Spruce, Western White 0.45 28
Sycamore 0.4 – 0.6 24 – 37
Tanguile 0.64 39
Teak, Indian 0.65 – 0.9 41 – 55
Teak, African .98 61
Teak, Burma 0.74 45
Utile 0.66 41
Walnut 0.65 – 0.7 40 – 44
Walnut, Amer Black 0.63 39
Walnut, Claro 0.49 30
Walnut, European 0.57 35
Water Gum 1 62
Whitewood, European 0.47 29
Willow 0.4 – 0.6 24 – 37
Yew 0.67 42
Zebrawood 0.79 49

Densities for various wood species measured in kilograms per cubic meter and pounds per cubic foot.

You can also learn more about the actual size of lumber.

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Framing Calculator

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Framing Calculator

Calculate how many studs you need to frame a wall using the framing calculator below. Plus, estimate the number of boards you need for the top and bottom plates of the wall.

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When framing a wall, the lumber must be positioned to support not only itself, but also the weight above. Vertical lumber supports, or studs, are an integral part of every new build.

Whether you’re constructing a shed, an addition to your home, or dividing a room in half, you need to have the right number of studs to help ensure the project will be structurally sound when you’re done.

Determining the proper placement and spacing of studs is critical when framing a wall. Studs are vertical framing members that provide structure and support to the wall, and they are often constructed from wood or steel.

The number of studs you need to frame a wall depends on the length of the wall and the spacing of the studs. The spacing of the studs depends on a variety of factors, such as the size of the wall, the type of material being used, whether it’s an interior or exterior wall, whether it’s load-bearing, and local building codes.

General stud spacing for interior walls tends to be around 16 inches on center, while exterior walls may be up to 24 inches on center. The more load a wall needs to hold, the more studs that may be required.

You can use a framing calculator like the one above to help calculate how many studs you need for your framing project, or you can figure it out by following a few easy steps.

Step One: Measure the Wall

The first step in calculating the studs needed to frame a wall is to determine the length and height of the wall. Measure the wall from one end to the other in inches using a tape measure to determine its length. If you have plans, you can consult them to determine the length of the wall.

Step Two: Determine the Stud Spacing

The spacing of the studs depends on a few factors, including the type of materials being used and local building codes. The most common spacing for wall studs is 16 inches on center (16″ OC), which means that the center of each stud is spaced exactly 16 inches apart.

It’s also common to see a 24″ OC spacing for some exterior walls or even a 12″ OC spacing for walls supporting heavy loads.

Step Three: Calculate the Number of Studs Needed

To calculate the number of studs you need, divide the length of the wall by the stud on-center spacing. For example, if you are framing a 13′ wall (156″) with a 16″ OC spacing, then divide 156″ inches by 16″, which is 9.75. 156″ ÷ 16″ = 9.75

Be sure to round up to the nearest whole stud, so in this case, you’ll round up to 10 studs. Then, add one more stud for the final corner stud, meaning you’ll need 11 studs for this wall.

Note that because center spacing is used, you can use this formula for any width stud, which means that even though a 2×4 does not measure 2″ wide, this formula still works.

Step Four: Account for Corners

For corner walls, you may need to add an extra stud on each end to provide additional support for drywall or plywood, or to add additional strength for the load of a building. Be sure to add these additional framing members to your estimate from step three above.

Step Five: Calculate Top and Bottom Plates

You’ll probably also need to account for top and bottom plates in your framing project, which are the boards on the top and bottom of the wall that the studs are attached to. For a 2×4 wall, this is usually a 2×4, and for 2×6 walls, this is usually a 2×6.

To calculate these, measure the length of the wall in inches, then divide that result by the length of the boards you’re using for the top and bottom plates.

Since it’s common to use two top plates and one or two bottom plates, you’ll need to multiply this result by three or four to get the total number of plates for the top and bottom.

Types of Studs

While most walls will contain full studs, if you have windows or doors in the wall, you may have additional types of studs as well. These are necessary to help support the wall around the opening.

In addition to the plates and the full studs, some other studs and wall framing components you may require include:

Cripple studs: Cripple studs support the bottom of a window opening and, in some cases, may also extend from the top of a doorway to the plate above. They are the same thickness as a full stud but are shorter.

Jack studs: Jack studs are used on either side of a window or door opening in the wall. This is a load-bearing vertical stud that the window or door header will rest on. You will need two or more Jack studs if you are framing an opening more than 5 feet wide. The exact number of Jack studs can vary depending on the size of the opening and the load of the wall.

King studs: The king stud sits against the Jack stud and runs floor to ceiling. While the Jack stud will terminate at the header, the king stud will frame out the exterior of the header and lend support to the Jack stud.

Header: The header is the top section of a door or window. It frames out the top of the opening and is supported on either side by the Jack stud.

Rough sill: The rough sill is the bottom frame of a window opening. The Jack stud will run on either side of the rough sill, and a cripple stud will support it from below.

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Board Foot Calculator

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Board Foot Calculator

Find the board footage of lumber by entering your boards’ length, width, and thickness. Add the price per board foot to estimate the cost.

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What is a Board Foot?

A board foot, abbreviated bd ft, is a unit of measurement for the volume of a piece of wood in feet. While square feet refers to the area of a material on two dimensions and linear feet refers to the length of an area or material, board feet takes into account the total volume of the wood, including its length, width, and depth.

Large slabs of rough wood, hardwood lumber, and exotic woods are usually measured and priced by the board foot, which accounts for the thickness, width, and length of the lumber. This allows for more accurate sizing and cost across a broader range of materials.

One board foot is equal to 144 cubic inches and is equivalent to a 1-inch thick board that is 1 square foot in size. You may see the term board foot abbreviated to bd ft, BDFT, BF, or FBM(foot, board measure).

Board footage is used to quantify how much wood a board contains since length by itself is not enough to determine how much volume the lumber contains. Boards that are wider or thicker contain more wood.

For example, a board that is 4/4 × 4″ × 8′ has the same amount of wood as a board that is 4/4 × 8″ × 4′. The board footage measurement indicates that both boards are equal in size, while using just the length measurement might make the thinner board appear larger.

Unlike 2x4s and dimensional lumber which are measured using nominal measurements, hardwood thickness is often measured in quarters of an inch, so you would refer to a 1″ board as four-quarters, expressed as 4/4.

How to Calculate Board Feet

You can calculate board footage, which is the volume of wood the board contains, using the calculator above or using a simple formula.

Using Length in Inches

You can calculate board feet by multiplying the board’s thickness in inches by the width in inches by the length in inches and then dividing the result by 144.

Thus, the formula to calculate board footage is (thickness × width × length) ÷ 144. Make sure you keep all measurements in inches, then divide by 144.

BF =
Thickness [in] × Width [in] × Length [in]
144
Using Length in Feet

You can also find the board footage of a board if your length dimension is in feet. Multiply the thickness of a board in inches by the width of the board in inches by the length of the board in feet, and then divide the result by 12.

BF =
Thickness [in] × Width [in] × Length [ft]
12

If you need help converting to inches, convert feet to inches, convert yards to inches, or convert centimeters to inches.

How to Calculate the Board Footage of a Log

There are a few methods that you can use to find the total lumber in a log, but the most common method is to use a Doyle log scale.[1]

To use a Doyle log scale, start by measuring the length of the log in feet and the smallest diameter of the log inside the bark in inches.

Then, refer to the Doyle log scale linked above to find the total number of board feet in the log.

There are several other commonly used scales for measuring logs and standing trees, including the International 1/4-inch scale and the Scribner standing tree scale.

Always use the same scale during one project in order to get consistent results. Switching between measurement scales may skew results and give inaccurate measurements.

Board Feet Charts

Refer to the charts below to quickly calculate the board feet for 4/4 and 8/4 stock.

4/4 Lumber (1″ Thick)

Board foot measurements for 4/4″ thick lumber at various widths and lengths.

4′ L 6′ L 8′ L 10′ L 12′ L 14′ L
4″ W 1.33 BF 2.0 BF 2.67 BF 3.33 BF 4.0 BF 4.67 BF
6″ W 2.0 BF 3.0 BF 4.0 BF 5.0 BF 6.0 BF 7.0 BF
8″ W 2.67 BF 4.0 BF 5.33 BF 6.67 BF 8.0 BF 9.33 BF
10″ W 3.33 BF 5.0 BF 6.67 BF 8.33 BF 10.0 BF 11.67 BF
12″ W 4.0 BF 6.0 BF 8.0 BF 10.0 BF 12.0 BF 14.0 BF

8/4 Lumber (2″ Thick)

Board foot measurements for 8/4″ thick lumber at various widths and lengths.

4′ L 6′ L 8′ L 10′ L 12′ L 14′ L
4″ W 2.67 BF 4.0 BF 5.33 BF 6.67 BF 8.0 BF 9.33 BF
6″ W 4.0 BF 6.0 BF 8.0 BF 10.0 BF 12.0 BF 14.0 BF
8″ W 5.33 BF 8.0 BF 10.67 BF 13.33 BF 16.0 BF 18.67 BF
10″ W 6.67 BF 10.0 BF 13.33 BF 16.67 BF 20.0 BF 23.33 BF
12″ W 8.0 BF 12.0 BF 16.0 BF 20.0 BF 24.0 BF 28.0 BF

Board feet take the thickness of the wood into consideration, along with length and width. This gives a more accurate measurement of the total amount of wood and cost of the lumber.

Linear feet measure distance in one direction, or the length of an area in 12″ increments. Board feet measure the volume of the wood, including the thickness, length, and width, with one board foot measuring 1″ in thickness and 1 square foot in area.

The size of a 2″ x 4″ x 8′ is 5.34 board feet.

This is directly related to the board and type of wood. There are fewer wider boards per log than there are thinner logs, and some wood species have fewer wider logs in general, making wider logs a more scarce commodity, and therefore they have a higher cost.

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Trim and Molding Calculator

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Trim and Molding Calculator

Estimate the number of base trim, door casing, window casing, crown, and chair rail moldings needed to complete a room by entering the length and width of your room. Optionally enter the number of windows and doors to estimate the amount of casings needed.

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*Door casing estimates assume 32″ x 80″ doors. Window casing estimates assume 32″ x 54″ windows, for larger windows multiply the amount of casing needed by 2 or 3.

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How to Estimate the Amount of Trim Needed

Installing trim can improve the look of any room. Trim can be used to help make the transition between walls and ceilings more finished. Trim can also help frame windows and doors, cover unfinished wall areas, or help add decorative elements to a room.

Estimating the amount of trim moldings needed to complete a room involves finding the length of the area you want to install trim in feet.

Calculate Baseboard, Chair Rail, and Crown Moldings

Baseboard, chair rail, and crown moldings can all be calculated using the same method. Moldings are all sold in specific lengths but are generally quoted in price by the linear foot.

You will need to get the linear feet of the area you want to install them on, then determine the length of the trim piece to determine how many pieces of trim will be required, as well as the cost. Use our length unit conversion tools to convert length measurements to feet.

Measure the length of each area you will install the trim on. For long walls, this is easy – just get the total length of the wall. For bump-outs, jogs, or walls with interruptions, you will need to measure each section individually, then add them together.

If the areas are small, measure all of the lengths on this wall in inches. After you add them together, divide by 12 and round up to the nearest whole number to get the total number of linear feet.

Moldings are sold by the linear foot or in lengths of generally 8′. Some moldings may be sold in other lengths; if this is the case, be sure to get the exact length of that molding. If your chosen molding is sold by the linear foot, take the linear footage you calculated when measuring, add one extra foot for length, and purchase this amount of material.

Learn more about calculating linear footage. If your molding is sold in 8′ pieces, then you need to find the number of pieces needed to complete your project. To do this, divide the linear footage measurement by 8 and round up, e.g. (perimeter / 8)
Because joints in trim are undesirable, it may be worth purchasing a little extra trim to account for cuts and waste material to ensure that you can use longer pieces when needed. This is a judgment call that you will need to make based on your room.

Many times, people will purchase one extra piece of molding to have on hand for this reason or in case of future repairs.

Calculate Door and Window Casing

Calculating the amount of window casing needed is a similar process to calculating base moldings. Start by measuring the top and sides of the door or window in inches, add them together, and convert the measurement to feet by dividing by 12.

Keep in mind that the header extends beyond the edge of the door or window by the thickness of the trim. Account for this by adding the thickness of the trim times 2 to each length of the door or window.

In some cases, your moldings may be mitered in the corners, meaning that they will be cut at 45-degree angles to make a clean corner. If this is the case, then the height of the molding and the width of the molding both must extend.

However, if the trim on the sides will die into the header on the top, then only the header must extend past the width of the opening; the vertical trim may end at the sill.

For example, if you’re installing a 3″ thick molding on a 36″ x 48″ window, use the following equation to find how much trim is needed:

linear ft = ((width + (thickness × 2)) × 2) + ((height + (thickness × 2)) × 2)
linear ft = ((36″ + (3″ × 2)) × 2) + ((48″ + (3″ × 2)) × 2)
linear ft = ((36″ + 6″) × 2) + ((48″ + 6″) × 2)
linear ft = (42″ × 2) + (54″ × 2)
linear ft = 84″ + 108″
linear ft = 192″ = 16′

This window could technically be completed using two 8′ pieces of molding, but most likely will require three 8′ pieces to accommodate offcuts and using complete sections for each edge. As with base molding, consider that longer lengths should be used to avoid joints when possible, which may require purchasing additional material.

You can estimate additional moldings for wall detail using our wainscoting layout or board and batten layout calculators.

How Much Does Trim Cost?

Estimating the cost involves multiplying the price of the trim per foot by the length of trim needed. If trim is sold in 8′ lengths, then multiply the cost of the trim by the number of pieces needed. Trim can range in price from $.25 to $10 per linear foot, depending on the species of wood, the thickness, and the complexity of the design.

Find out how much your trim project will cost with professional quotes from trim carpenters in your area. When estimating cost, be sure to account for waste material and painting or finishing.

Most wood trim will need to be painted or stained, which can add to the cost of the project, but pre-finished trim is available, as is trim made of vinyl and other materials that do not require finish as well.

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Board and Batten Layout Calculator

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Board and Batten Layout Calculator

Use our board and batten layout calculator to determine an even batten spacing and find how many battens you’ll need for a wall.

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There are too many battens for the provided batten width, try a thinner batten or reducing the number of battens

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We calculated there are 2 options close to a {{ spacing }} spacing

Layout Using {{total_number_of_battens}} Battens

Dimensions

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Layout Drawing

Batten Locations

Layout Using {{total_number_of_battens_2}} Battens

Dimensions

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Layout Drawing

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How to Lay Out a Board and Batten Wall

Board and batten walls and siding are some of the oldest wall finishing methods in the U.S. When sawmills began operating, it was common for boards to be milled into long, wide planks, which could be installed vertically to cover the exterior walls of early homes. Because this style of wall is not weathertight, thin strips of wood, known as battens, were installed over the spaces between the boards.

Today, board and batten siding is still a popular method for finishing a house exterior, and it’s also a great way to dress up a wall and is much simpler to install than wainscoting panels.

You can lay out a board and batten wall to find the exact spacing between battens in a few easy steps. But first, let’s go over some important terminology used when describing board and batten paneling.

Battens are vertical strips affixed to the wall and are most often wood, but you can use PVC or other materials as well. They traditionally measure 1″ wide by 1″ thick.

While originally, the boards were separate pieces placed vertically on the wall, today, faux board and batten can be created on the wall with the “boards” being the empty spaces between the vertical strips. This gives the illusion that the wall is finished with true board and batten siding.

You can adhere the battens directly to your drywall or install an MDF, wood, or plywood panel on the wall first, then apply the battens to this to get the look.

When using board and batten on a wall, most often, you’ll also add a baseboard and top board. The baseboard is a board laid horizontally along the floor, and the top board is laid horizontally above the battens to frame them in.

You may also consider adding a chair rail, which is another piece of trim molding that sits above the top rail and extends a bit beyond.

Alternatively, you may choose to extend the faux board and batten wall from floor to ceiling as well.

Now let’s go over the steps to lay out a board and batten wall and achieve an even spacing between each batten without having an uneven gap on either end.

Step One: Measure Each Wall

The first step is to measure the width of each wall in inches using a tape measure. If you have measurements in feet, then convert them to inches.

Step Two: Determine Your Preferred Spacing

Now you’ll want to plan your preferred or ideal spacing between each batten on the wall. This is likely not going to be the final, precise spacing, but it will give you a target to shoot for.

The most common spacing is 10 to 12 inches apart, but you can space the battens as close or far apart as you like.

Step Three: Determine the Exact Spacing

Now that you have an idea of how far apart you’d like the battens, it’s time to figure out what will work with your wall and material choices. The easiest way to do this is to determine the width of the battens and the preferred space between them and figure out how many will fit on the wall.

Find the Width of Batten and Preferred Space
Start by adding the width of one batten to the preferred space between them to get the width of the batten and the adjacent space.

batten & space width = batten width + space width

Find the Remaining Wall Width
Then, subtract the width of one batten from the width of the wall. This is necessary to account for the first batten on the wall.

remaining width = wall width – batten width

Find the Number of Spaces
Next, divide the remaining wall width by the overall board and batten width to get an idea of how many battens and spaces you’ll need.

total spaces = remaining width ÷ batten & space

If the result is an even whole number, then you’re done, the spacing you chose will work perfectly! But, if the result has a decimal portion, then there are a few more things to do to find a spacing that will not leave a larger or smaller gap on the end.

To do this, round the result to the nearest whole number to find the total number of spaces on the wall.

Find the Width of Batten and Exact Space
Then, divide the remaining width by the total number of spaces on the wall to find the width of the space and adjacent batten.

batten & space width = remaining width ÷ total spaces

Find the Width of the Exact Space
Finally, subtract the width of the batten from this to find the precise width of the space.

exact space = batten & space width – batten width

Of course, the layout calculator above takes care of all of this to quickly find the perfect spacing and save considerable time.

Frequently Asked Questions

For an indoor, faux board and batten wall, any wood will work. If you’re painting it, you may look for materials that accept paint well, such as poplar, maple, or pine. If you’re staining it, then you may want to look for a wood that will achieve the desired finish when stained.

For outdoor board and batten siding applications, cedar is the most common and preferred, but pine may also be used. PVC is also an excellent choice since it will not rot.

Traditional board and batten boards were 1″ thick, as were the battens. This is still standard for most exterior applications, but some newer materials including fiber cement and vinyl may be thinner.

For an exterior application, yes, the home should be fully framed, wrapped, and sheathed. For an interior faux board and batten wall, you can use plywood or MDF, or you can attach the battens directly to the drywall.

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